Lane's Adventures

5:30 rolled around early this morning and we were out the door by 6:30 to the Beijing South Railway Station to head for Shanghai. As expected, the trains run on an impeccable schedule, and was impeccably clean and new. In fact, I was completely amazed by the technology; the mag-lev “bullet” train that we were on was going about 190 mph and it hardly felt like we were on train tracks at all! The journey took about 4 and a half hours, and when we disembarked, we headed right into the subway. The subway in Shanghai isn’t nearly as modernized or nice as the Beijing subway, but it still puts most other major cities to shame as far as speed and extensiveness.

Unfortunately, the directions that I had gotten us took us to the wrong Holiday Inn, so we had to jump back in a cab after getting off the subway. When we finally made it, we quickly left our bags, and devised a plan to head back out. Ben and I were intent on buying tailored suits here, but we wanted to make it to the market before it closed at 6:00. We couldn’t make it in time because of a closed subway line and a long detour, but we ended up on Nanjing Lu (the famous street of shopping for both high-end and knockoff goods).

We searched for a famous dumpling restaurant, but never found it, so we ended up ‘settling’ for another fried dumpling restaurant, which was actually outstanding (and incredibly cheap!). Afterwards, we ventured back out onto Nanjing Lu, to the pedestrian-only throughway. We spotted the same Bread Talk that I’d remembered from the last trip, and I wanted to check out Uni Qlo, a Japanese store that has a flagship in Shanghai, and one that I’d missed in NYC a few months ago. It was a pretty cool store, and we found some very cheap, but nice clothes.

Later, we ventured just off the pedestrian way and found a shop that we remembered from before where we could find discount wares and, well, shall I say, less than legitimate items. We actually went back to a lady who we’d met on the previous trip, and she was still in the same shop! After getting a few things, we headed back to Nanjing Lu and did some walking.

This street epitomizes the progress and economic development of this region – it makes you think you’re in the middle of Times Square with the LED signs and lights, and on Rodeo Drive with the ultra-high-end shoppes and accommodations.

Right now I’m looking at a panoramic of fireworks from our 19th floor room. To say this is anything like the Fourth of July fireworks displays would be a complete understatement. Fireworks in every direction and of every variety are being set off endlessly. There are always fireworks when I look out…I am going to attempt to post a video, but the file size may be too large. You need to see it, because I can’t adequately describe how insane (and — quite literally — awesome) it is!

We started this morning a little slowly, but when we were finally out the door, Chad and I headed toward the Hard Rock, where he wanted to eat and pick up gifts, but Ben had to stay at the hotel and knock out some work. The food at the Hard Rock was average and overpriced (even by US standards), as I expected. It was also strangely deserted when we arrived and gradually filled as we ate.

After we left, we noticed that there was a Starbucks nearby, so I stopped to get a replacement of the Beijing cup that I”d purchased yesterday because as I was running for a bus, the Starbucks bag gave out and broke the handle. Nearby was the US Embassy, and we wanted to check it out and see if we could get a tour. When we arrived, we showed the Chinese guard our passports and he let us in, but we found that there was no one in the first security checkpoint because of the holiday (they take off the entire week for the Chinese New Year). We thought we were locked in, but we finally figured our way out, so we were back on the street.

Ben had secured us tickets to an acrobatics show that was relatively nearby, so we didn’t want to head back to the hotel. Instead, we jumped back on the subway to the Olympic Park. I’m glad we did, because it’s quite a magnificent park (and I hadn’t seen it when I visited in 2009). The stadium, conference center, and all of the other Olympic venues are extremely well-designed and well-laid-out. Nearby there was also a mall, which was seemingly built for the Olympics as well. Although it was one of the nicest malls I’ve ever seen (in terms of cleanliness and size), it was almost devoid of shoppes. It looked to be about 25% occupied. Needless to say, in the US, this type of mall would go out of business. There were, however, quite a few people visiting!

Ben met up with us at the mall as I enjoyed a McFlurry from McCafe (some things really are the same). We jumped back on the subway for a longer journey to the acrobatics show. The show was absolutely phenomenal. In the first act, there was an acrobat stacking chairs on top of one another, to 30-40 feet high, and then balancing on each of them (sometimes on a single arm, upside down). Another pair of acrobats did a ballet number where the male acrobat balanced the female on his shoulders and head as she performed. The control and precision of all the artists was amazing. Another act included numerous female acrobats riding bikes in harmony, then ended with all of them balancing on a single bike while still moving. Finally, the grade finale was a sphere wherein motorcycles ride. It would have been impressive with one…two, maybe…but there were six motorists zooming around inside a sphere with the diameter of no more than 20 feet. Needless to say, these were some jaw-dropping, daring performances. What a show, what a day!

I had an interview for a campus honorary this morning, so I was up around 6:00 prepping for the 7:15. It was nice to be up early and catch people in the US evening, so I actually got quite a bit of work done. Ben slept in, and Chad was up working on email. When we decided to head out it was around 9:30 or 10:00 and we headed back toward the Silk Market. To our dismay, it was still closed! (Ben and I had hoped to commission a tailor to make us suits.) We grabbed lunch at a nearby Chinese fast-food-type restaurant. I had a bowl of noodles with beef, some peach pudding, and flavored tea…it was a great meal, and cost around $3.50. We headed back to Starbucks since it was near the stop, and so that we could warm up and plan our next move.

We headed out for the Great Wall at Badaling, which is about 45 miles outside the city center. Google Maps had instructed us to go to the furthest subway stop, then catch a bus. This was to be a long journey, but the subway system is absolutely impressive here. Every single stop is pristinely maintained, including top-knotch escalators, clean tile flooring, RFID-equipped readers and gates (all electronic ticketing, which costs 2 yuan, or around 30 cents to go anywhere in the system), electronic displays for the next two train arrivals, and safety gates to keep people from falling (or being pushed when it’s crowded) into the line. Inside each of the cars, there’s an automated attendant in Mandarin and English announcing upcoming stops and connections, and the heads-up map shows which stop you’re leaving and arriving in real time. Needless to say, the technical splendor and outstanding condition of the subway places it among the best I’ve seen anywhere in the world. Yesterday it was eerily deserted for the holiday, but today it started looking more like China and was actually crowded. I’m interested to know how many people are moved around this system daily…it’s a big number, I’m sure. When we talk about infrastructural investments in major cities, they need to look at this system as a model.

Finally, we reached the end of the line and ended up catching a cab because it was rather cheap. After about 45 minutes of driving through a moutainous region, we reached the Badaling section of the Great Wall. The Badaling section is pretty commericalized and restored, but still requires some hiking. There were excellent views, though it was probably about -5 degrees! On the way back to the city, we decided to catch the bus, which ended up being extremely economical and fast (only cost about $2.50 for an hour or so ride back to the subway).

The walk from the subway to our hotel left us a bit hungry, so we ducked into a local restaurant, which seemed to serve authentic food, and started flipping through their photo-tabbed menu to order. We ended up ordering pork, beef, Sichuan tofu, and snake!  It was way too much food for three, but it was delicious. Surprisingly, the snake tasted a lot like seafood, but the texture was about like pork. It wasn’t my favorite exotic food, but it certainly isn’t something I’ll shy away from. The tofu was spicy, but probably my favorite of the dishes. When we were done, we wanted to see about their tipping customs here (some places in China will accept tips if they are more westernized, others don’t. As I exited the front door, one of the waiters ran after we with the 10 yuan that we’d left as a tip…I guess it’s not customary there!

We were all up pretty early, so we ventured out right away. Ben and I were excited to find Bread Talk, so we looked it up and started walking. It turned out to be a nice 2-3 mile walk in the brisk Beijing air to start our first day. When finally we reached out destination, it was closed, so we waited at McDonalds for Bread Talk to open. Joyfully, we chowed down on some long-lost favorites from our last stint in China.

Bread Talk, one of our favorite Chinese chains (it's actually Singaporean)

After leaving, we decided to head for the Silk Market (by subway this time), which is famous as one of the largest markets in China. Unfortunately, due to the Chinese New Year, the Silk Market was closed! Nearby, outside the subway station, there was a Starbucks. Inside we found the first westerners that we’d seen all day…in fact, it was almost filled with westerners. A tall Americano here actually costs about 50 cents more than in the US. Interestingly, instead of using xing ba ke Chinese naming for Starbucks, they have rebranded since the last time I was here and it just says “Starbucks” with the new logo.

From Starbucks we headed to Tian’an Men Square area to see the Forbidden City and Square. This is where all of the Chinese people who had seemingly cleared out had headed. Apparently it’s the place to be for the New Year. Interestingly, while we were there, we ran into one of the flight attendants from our flight over. What are the chances that in a city of 20 million we see him there.

The flight attendant gave us a recommendation for the local food stalls nearby, so we walked over and had an early dinner/late lunch. Ben and I had visited here on our last trip, but it seemed much more expansive this time (perhaps because we’d previously visited in the dark). There were all kinds of exotic foods…these are the kinds of food that people ask about when you say that you’ve been to China: “Oh, did you eat snake…did you eat __?” Here you can eat it all. We didn’t eat anything too exotic, but I had some excellent dumplings, chicken, fried bananas, noodles, and mango potato fries. For more than a block, all you can see are these food stalls, cooking up all kinds of exotic things, so the options are endless!

We headed back via Subway and had planned on going back out for dinner, but we were all exhausted and retreated to the hotel restaurant. Most American food in China isn’t that great, and this was no exception…my club sandwich was sub-par and overpriced, but Ben and I split a bottle of Great Wall wine, which is apparently made of Chinese grapes. It was a decent wine (which was also grossly overpaid for at about $18/bottle — not bad for a restaurant-grade wine, but still expensive for China). The Dragon Seal wine didn’t have much body and the tannins were prevalent. After that, I was out…time for bed. Fireworks continued late into the night!

We left Detroit on Saturday evening around 8:00 PM and embarked on our 14-hour flight. The 747 that we were on was virtually empty…giving us each three seats across, so there was ample room to sprawl out, making the flight go by quickly. Ben and I bonded with one of the flight attendants who has been doing the asian routes since 1994 when Northwest was the first US carrier allowed into China. She had some great stories.

As we approached the Beijing airport, we saw TONS of fireworks lighting up the sky 30,000 feet below. It looked like a bunch of firecrackers, with an occasional waterfall-type firework. As we took a long drive from the airport, we saw that literally everything was closed in celebration, and there was more fireworks that I’ve seen in my live in the middle of the streets. I’m not sure how many structure fires there were last night, but as close as they were setting them off to buildings, I’m sure there were at least a few!

When we arrived at our hotel, the Holiday Inn Temple of Heaven, we climbed to our 14th floor room and saw more fireworks that were around room-level. To say the display is impressive would be an understatement…what’s not an understatement is that the Fourth of July celebrations in the US completely pale in comparison to the Chinese New Year Celebrations!

This morning (Monday), we’re off for more adventures in Bejing…more later.